BIKANER – OF
GOLDEN SANDS AND PINK PALACES
Usha
Bande*
Bikaner - an arid
area with vast stretches of desert, sand dunes and scraggy bushes
spreads as far as the eye could see. Strategically located, its
ancient desert has a timeless appeal. Boasting a royal past, Bikaner
whispers the mediaeval enchantment and also proclaims itself a
modern town. It inspires the respect and affection of all those
who have known it.
Popularly called
the Camel country, this royal walled city forms the northernmost
point of the triangle of desert cities. Renowned for the best
riding camels in the world, Bikaner has a Camel Research Centre,
the only one of its kind in Asia, breeding the finest camels.
The camel is an inseparable part of life here, be it pulling carts
or working on wells. Talking of wells one learns with surprise
that this desert city can boast of its beautifully made wells.
Built on high platforms, the slender minarets of these wells are
conspicuous and discernible from a distance. They are not only
an important source of water but are also a tourist attraction.
The history of
Bikaner dates back to 1488 A.D. when Rao Bikaji established his
kingdom here. Bikaji was the son of Rao Jodhaji, the founder of
Jodhpur. Of the five sons of Jodhaji, Bikaji was the most enterprising.
Once challenged by the father on some issue, Bikaji chose to walk
out of the palace pledging to establish his own kingdom. Legend
has it that once during his wanderings in the wilderness, the
desperate and melancholy Rao Bikaji met an old woman who was none
else than Maa Karni, the incarnation of Goddess Durga. She blessed
Bikaji and exhorted him to establish his kingdom in the vicinity.
It was a barren land commonly called Jungledesh and to
think of transforming the place into a flourishing capital could
have been well beyond human imagination. But, Bikaji followed
the command and founded his capital there. The city came to be
called Bikaner after him. Being on the great caravan trade route
linking Central Asia and North India with Gujarat seaports, Bikaner
soon became a bustling trade centre.
The city is surrounded
by a seven-kilometre long wall built to protect it from the vagaries
of nature and outside aggression. The five entrance gates were,
however, constructed much later, in the 18th century. The long
and eventful history of Bikaner is beset with many a turmoil.
Several Rajput clans coveted it for its strategic position and
riches and often created problems. Moreover, being in the proximity
of Delhi, the seat of the Moghul Empire, it was quite vulnerable
to attacks. But Rao Bikaji and his city were always protected
and blessed by Goddess Karni. She is the presiding deity of Bikaner
city as well as of the erstwhile ruling family.
The 600-year-old
Karni temple stands as a monument of devotion of the populace
here. This fort-like temple is situated at Dashnok, 33 kms from
Bikaner and it displays the rich beauty of Rajput architecture.
The archway of the temple is exquisitely carved in marble and
has huge and impressive silver gates. The temple is also a haven
for rats, considered holy here. The guides at the Junagarh fort
evoke one’s interest well before one sets out for Dashnok when
they tell the visitors that spotting a white rat amid the whole
lot of black ones is a sure sign of good luck.
The forts, palaces
and temples of Bikaner – magnificent creations in red and yellow
sand stone- are the living manifestations of its rich historical
and architectural legacy. The Junagarh fort is massive, awe-inspiring
and simply a marvel of architecture. Built by Raja Rai Singh,
it stands on an elevated terrain with its several pavilions, temples
and 37 palaces within the complex. Suraj Pol or the Sun Gate is
the main entrance to the fort. The Ganesh temple at the entrance
blesses whosoever visits the wonderful fort- a rare tribute to
art and architecture. The most beautiful palaces in the fort complex
are the Chandra Mahal, Phool Mahal and Karan Mahal, ornate with
mirror work, carvings and paintings. An array of kiosks and balconies
embellish the fort at interval, breaking the monotony.
The Lalgarh Palace,
designed by Sir Swinton Jacob for Maharaja Ganga Singh has a fascinating
juxtaposition of the oriental style and European luxury that leaves
one mesmerized. Built in red stone, the palace has a billiard
room, a library, a cards room and a smoking room. Belgian chandeliers,
cut glass ornaments, oil paintings and decorative art add to its
charm and richness. This exotic palace has magnificent pillars,
richly carved fire mantels, Italian colonnades and motifs of the
lotus in full bloom. A visit to the palace, indeed, transports
one to the glorious past.
The bazaar of
Bikaner is in the area inside the Kote Gate where one could buy
exquisite traditional items - camel hide purses and bags, carpets,
wall-hangings and several other things made of camel wool. Old
havelis, with richly carved balconies overlooking the road are
reminiscent of the royal past. The bazaar is colourful and, though
congested, it is worth a visit.
Bikaner is known
for its colourful festivals. The camel festival held in January
is a spectacular event of great fanfare and festivity. Camel performances,
camel-milking competitions, camel acrobatics and camel dances
are some of its attractions. The Kolayat fair attracts thousands
of devotees to the Kolayat lake on the full-moon day in the month
of Kartik. The Gangaur festival, dedicated to Goddess Parvati,
is held in April. It is marked by eighteen days of festivities.
Around Bikaner there are a number of places of interest like Gajner
sanctuary, Devi Kund, the Jain temples of Bhandeshwar and Sandeshwar
and the Kalibanga excavation site of the Harappan civilization.
Life in Bikaner
has the old, traditional rhythm that is relaxing and reviving
for the fretted nerves. And then, with our journey’s memorabilia,
let us not forget to buy a packet or two of the famous Bikaneri
namkeen to chew and ruminate on the desert city that is so enlivening.(PIB
Features)
*Freelance
Writer
